Friday, October 22nd, 2010 | posted by mike

There is nothing like sitting down to a big bowl of steamed mussels. Savoring each one, dunking your crusty bread in the garlicky broth…it’s such a satisfying and healthful meal. Mussels are one of the fastest, easiest and inexpensive luxuries out there. So simple. Just steam ‘em in 1/4″ of white wine, garlic, shallots, parsley…maybe a dab of butter for about 4-5 minutes or until they open. You can add fresh herbs and tomatoes if you like. Mussels are also great cold in salads, hot in soups or added to risotto. I’ve stuffed larger mussels with bread, parmesan cheese, pancetta and herbs. I also make a killer Thai marinated mussel on the 1/2 shell with fish sauce, sweet chili sauce, rice vinegar, basil, mint, & cilantro. This is one versatile little beauty.

Buying and Storing
The two typical choices of mussels at the market are wild or cultured. Wild mussels are usually a bit larger, might have barnacles and larger byssus or “beards” on them (the mussels use their beards to fix themselves to piers, rocks, etc.). Most of the mussels we sell at Monahan’s are rope cultured mussels from Prince Edward Island. These mussels are hung above the sea floor and are sand and grit free. The wild mussels (along with wild clams) need to be purged in lightly salted water with a tablespoon of flour or cornmeal so they will disgorge any sand.

The beards on the cultured mussels are very small and don’t really need to be removed prior to cooking. When removing the beards from wild mussels, do so just before cooking because it will weaken and maybe kill them.

Buying mussels can be a bit tricky. Most markets and restaurants do not do a good job in handling mussels—thus, giving rise to Anthony Bourdain pronouncements such as “Never order mussels on a Sunday.” This is because handlers don’t pay close attention to the “harvest dates” on every shipment, they don’t store the mussels properly (buried in ice but not touching water), or keep a super close eye on mortality. All mussels should be purchased and cooked live. The should all be closed tight, not be cracked or broken and feel heavy for their size. Mussels naturally “gape” and when open they are vulnerable to dehydration, causing them to weaken and die. That’s why mussels are hard to handle. It takes a lot of time and effort for a restaurant or a merchant to be constantly culling through them to remove the ones that have expired. Your fish monger should be going through them very carefully at the time of your purchase. If the salesperson is just tossing them into a bag or if you see those pre-portioned bags at the store, you’re probably going to find dead mussels at home. Ideally, you should cook mussels the same day that you buy them. If you need to store them for a day or two place them in a container and cover with a damp towel or newspaper. Before cooking, fill container with a little ice and water and swish them around to agitate, then drain. Most gaping live mussels will close. Sometimes a stubborn open mussel will close if you tap in on the counter and pinch the shells together. If you don’t detect any movement, get rid of it (dead). It’s always good to rinse and check them just before cooking.

Now is the season to enjoy mussels at their finest, most plentiful, sustainable, healthful goodness!