Flounder, Halibut, Fluke & Sole: Flat Fish Make the World Go 'Round

Friday, January 28th, 2011 | posted by mike

Video of swimming flounder

The world of flat fish is vast, varied and confusing. There are 11 families and 500 species, 130 of them are native to America. Soles, flounders and halibut are familiar to most of us but dabs, plaice, brill,  toungefish, turbot, are all different types of flatfish. One thing that they all have in common is they all have both eyes on the same side of their head. When first born they look like normal fish swimming upright, but soon one eye will “migrate ” to the other side and the fish will flop down on it’s side.

The top side will be dark and blend in with the sea floor, some species even change colors, the bottom side is white, to blend in with the surface when swimming off the bottom. Some would wonder how such a freak could evolve into a family of 500. If you could see the way they gracefully move along, invisible to predators, agile and fast, their bodies like one big fin capable of quick bursts of speed, you would see a perfectly adapted fish.

Some flatfish are right eyed with their mouths on the left and some are left eyed, all true soles are right eyed. There are soft mouthed flatfish like Yellowtail Founder (Winter Flounder) and Grey Sole that feed on the bottom and toothy flounders like Flukes (Summer Flounder) that eat other fish.

A huge family that includes so many fine food fish is bound to have some misleading and downright erroneous labeling. For example, when you see the name “Sole” at the market, it’s probably going to really be a type of flounder. Lemon Sole (a large winter flounder fillet) from our northeast coast is delicious, but not a true sole. Pacific Dover Sole also is not a true sole and it doesn’t begin to compare in flavor or texture to the European Common or Dover Sole, which I think is one of the world’s finest fish. Pacific Rex Sole, although a sweet nutty flavored little flounder is not a true sole either. Neither is the popular Pacific Petrale Sole. Many of these fish are fine at the table, but you can see that the labeling can be hard to figure out, especially when the Dover Sole that you served at home just wasn’t quite the experience you remembered in Europe.

The bottom line for us though isn’t so much in the name but in the quality. At Monahan’s we look for flatfish that are the tastiest and that we can get to our market fast. Since freshness deteriorates quickly with these fish we have had much better luck bringing in east coast fish rather than Pacific fish. Among the regulars at our market are whole and fillets of Yellowtail Flounder, Blackback Dabs, Grey Sole, large Channel Flounders (Lemon Sole), Pacific and Atlantic Halibut and sashimi-grade Fluke. Our genuine Dover Sole we get frozen from Holland. They are flash frozen on the boat and really  good quality.

As far as flavor and preparation, most of the commercially-sold flat fish are mild and delicate, they vary in texture, sweetness and size. Since most are tender in texture, the smaller whole fish and fillets are perfect for the pan in dishes like meuniere or amandine. Larger, meatier fish like Channel Flounder, Fluke or Halibut are great to steam, bake or grill. Whole smaller flounder or fillets are also great to stuff (crab stuffing is a great flavor with sole or flounder). I love all of the flatfish that we sell but the sweetest, nuttiest, most delicious of all, for me, is Grey Sole. These fish come from the gulf of Maine and Georges Bank. Snow-white flesh and so good flash sautéed or stuffed and baked. We see lovely Grey sole this time of year, in fact there must have been a lot of fish landed this week ’cause the price will be the best we’ve seen in months! Give some a try tonight!  Here’s an easy quick one for ya. Grey Sole Amandine.

Mackerel: "The Perfect Fish!"

Friday, January 21st, 2011 | posted by mike

I’ve always called Atlantic  Mackerel a true “fish lovers” fish because it has dark flesh with lots of fat and flavor that many shy away from. Mackerel has an undeserved bad reputation as a greasy, strong, “fishy-tasting” fish, but to me its the perfect fish in every way.

Flavorful
Good fresh mackerel has full flavor but a nice sweetness to it. I love it’s taste and richness that holds up to almost any bold and flavorful preparation. Mackerel is great with acidic sauces with citrus, tomatoes or capers. It’s perfect for teriyaki with scallions. Curry and mackerel is a great taste. Blackened, broiled with smoked Spanish paprika, miso marinated, pickled for sushi (shime Saba), baked with Swedish mustard dill sauce or chipotle pepper sauce? You name it! It’s bold flavor makes it a great fish to simply bake, broil, steam, pan sear or grill with nothing but a bit of olive oil and salt and pepper.
Healthful
Another great thing about mackerel is that it’s one of the most pure (low in mercury, PCBs and other contaminates) and healthful fish in the sea. Full of omega 3 fatty acids,which helps reduce fat in your arteries and lower cholsesterol, boost brain development,l essen the risk of depression and asthma, to name a few. It’s also high in minerals, vitamin B-12, vitamin D and selenium. Purity and goodness, the perfect health food.
Sustainable
Our north Atlantic mackerel stocks are plentiful and sustainable. At the end of the 19th century, the demand for canned mackerel put alot of pressure on the stocks to the point of overfishing. Conservation measures and the enactment of the 200 mile helped bring stocks back to a healthy level. Fishing methods in our north Atlantic for mackerel are very Eco-friendly. Low-impact gear like midwater trawls that target these fish don’t do any damage to the sea floor.

Affordable
You would think that a fish with so much going for it might be a bit pricy but because mackerel are plentiful and not that popular in the U.S. (yet), they are one of the best priced values available. Flavor, versatile with endless recipe possibilities, sustainable, super-healthful and inexpensive—Mackerel IS the perfect fish.

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The Bright Side to a Gray January Day: Maine Shrimp are Here!

Friday, January 14th, 2011 | posted by wendy

In the cold dead of winter one of our all time favorite seasonal delicacies appears—Maine Shrimp! The hermaphrodites have returned in all their fresh, sweet and delicate glory! These lovely little pink beauties begin their lives as males and as they migrate south to the gulf of Maine they become females packed with sweet roe!

They are really quite different than their southern cousins—much smaller about 50-60 to the lb., there is no need to devein them (just peel) and they take about a minute to cook. They are a beautiful pink orange color have a firm but tender texture and are just about the sweetest and nuttiest flavor you’ll ever experience .

We first started bringing in these gems back in the early 80s and every season we discover new and amazing ways to prepare them. Our original Maine Shrimp recipe handout has some great recipes: Open face Scandanavian sandwich with hard boiled egg and fresh dill on rye, stir-fried with herbs and sun dried tomatoes over linguini, Sesame stir fry over rice. We now make Maine shrimp po, boys and shrimp rolls , ceviche Thai shrimp cakes, scampi, all kinds of salads, fried head on with roe, served raw for sashimi or with a splash of lemon and a good olive oil—Forrest Gump’s buddy Bubba would have been amazed with the possibilities!

The season usually officially last until May but they seem to start pertering out in April. So if you need a fresh lift out the winter blahs come on down and get em while their runnin’!

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For a Healthful 2012: Eat More Fish!

Friday, January 7th, 2011 | posted by mike

It’s a new year and many of us are thinking about lightening up and changing our eating habits for the better. Old habits die hard. The bad choices we’ve all made over the years aren’t that easy to change. We all know that fish and shellfish are the healthiest of choices—full of protein, essential vitamins, minerals and those incredible Omega 3 fatty acids. Fish is naturally low in calories…its fat is the “good” polyunsaturated fat and we know we would be doing our minds and bodies a big favor to eat more of it.

Fish en Papillote

Bernie making a papillote at the Market

One problem for a lot of folks is that they just weren’t raised eating lots of fish, or worse, they had nothing but less-than-fresh fish. Lots of Catholics out there remember dreading Friday, when the whole neighborhood stunk. For many, fish was a duty instead of a pleasure.

Well, I’m here to say that truly fresh fish doesn’t stink and should have nothing but a sweet smell of the sea. Simply prepared can be the most healthful and delightful of any food choice out there. You won’t find a more varied, seasonal, ever-changing, interesting, healthful…and most delicious choice.

Over the years I’ve seen a lot of fish haters become fish lovers simply by being exposed to truly fresh fish with simple recipes. I’ve converted several of my kids’ friends by simply letting them try the good stuff.

Steaming is one great and healthful method that retains all the moisture, flavor and goodness using little or no fat. Fish can be steamed in a steamer, in parchment paper (en papillote) or even in tin foil. Who needs the fat for flavor? Vegetables, herbs & spices are all you need…this week’s recipe for Cod en Papillote is a good example, but be sure to ask for any other number of suggestions when you visit us at the fish market. We’ll even include some sheets of parchment for you!