Hake: Unsung Hero

Friday, April 15th, 2011 | posted by mike

A great fish that most people outside of New England have never heard of is Hake. It’s not that there aren’t enough of them—the North Atlantic stocks are plentiful and sustainable. They fit the profile of a white, delicate, sweet fish that Americans traditionally love. They are also usually sold at a great price compared to it’s more famous cousins like cod, haddock and even pollack.

There are many different species of hake. The one we sell is called white hake, which is similar in texture and flavor to the European hake. Now here is another of the many examples of  “one mans trash is another mans treasure.” Although hake is familiar to folks in New England, I’ve never seen it on a menu (outside of our own) in the midwest, except for a few big city spanish restaurants. Spain’s national fish is Hake (Merluza). One third of the total of fish consumed in Spain is Hake, and there’s a lot of diffrerent fish in Spain. It’s incredible that something that is such a huge part of entire cultures is little known and underutilized in most of the U.S.

Out of all the fish in the cod family, Americans have always preferred cod and haddock over hake and pollock. Part of it is because of texture. Cod for example has large, firm flakes. Hake is tighter textured, fairly soft and delicate. It’s flavor is mild and subtly sweet, but if you were to simply bake it, some might find it to be soft and bland. However, if you were to visit San Sebastian, Spain and experience Basque style ‘Merluza a la Koxkera’ (hake with clams), the sweet flavor of the hake with a rich clammy green sauce might be the best thing you’ve ever eaten. It’s all in the right preparation for the right fish.

Hake is always good cooked with a little texture to it. Hot-pan searing and serving over a pepper tomato sauce; or coating it with seasoned breadcrumbs, such as panko parmesan herb crust and baking it at high heat, the results will be a super light, delicate and sweet fish with a bit of a crust instead of a soft boring texture.

Another problem with Hake in America is that it doesn’t travel well. Since it’s softer and more delicate than other fish, it’s more perishable which means that the chances of buying less than fresh fish outside of the east coast is greatly increased. We bring in whole hake and fillet them fresh so that’s not a problem at Monahan’s.

Here’s our version of hake with clams, in Spain this dish would be cooked in a clay cazuela and be spun over a stove for 20 minutes til the sauce gels and thickens. Our version of this recipe is a lot easier and pretty darn good.

We’re also including an old new England style slack-salted Corned Hake recipe that Bill Gerencer shared with us. Bill is the buyer for our oldest (30 years) supplier, M. F. Foley, in Boston and New Bedford. He was a commercial fisherman in his younger days and this is a dish he used to cook onboard his vessel (notice the canned cream corn from the galley’s pantry). Thanks Bill!

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Octopus with Potatoes

Friday, December 3rd, 2010 | posted by wendy

This is a favorite around our house. Serves 4.

2.5 lbs. fresh Spanish baby octopus (frozen is OK if fresh is unavailable)
1.5 lbs. fingerling or redskin potatotes
4 cloves garlic
2 T fresh, chopped parsley
2 T chopped onions
6 T extra virgin olive oil
3 T rice vinegar
2 t dried oregano
2 t dried basil
1 t dijon mustard
juice of one lemon

Boil potatoes for about 15 minutes, then chill and cut into 1-inch cubes.

Boil octopus for 45 minutes. 10 minutes before the octopus is done, fry the cubed potatoes in 3 T olive oil, tossing occasionally to brown, then add the garlic and cook until fragrant (about 30 seconds) then add slices of octopus and gently toss with the vinaigrette and herbs. Serve warm.

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Paella a la Valencia

Thursday, July 29th, 2010 | posted by wendy

A spectacular medley of colors and tastes — Spain’s world famous rice dish.  Vary this recipe as you wish. Different types of shellfish, pork and poultry can be added … just be sure to keep the basic proportions the same:

• 10 – 15” paella pan
• 1/2 tsp. Spanish saffron threads
• Approximately 6 cups of Monahan’s fish stock (or homemade chicken stock boiled with shrimp shells)
• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 12 large shrimp in the shell
• 2-3 links Spanish chorizo sausage, cut into 1/4 inch slices
• 6-8 chicken thighs or a cut-up chicken cut into about 12 pieces
• Approximately 3 cups of Valencian rice (unwashed)
• 24 Pacific Manila clams or 18 small littleneck clams*
• course salt to taste
• 12 whole langostinos (lobsterettes), or 2 lobsters (1 1/4 lbs., split and divided into tail sections and claws), or 3 lobster tails (split)* 6-8 oz. each
• 18 mussels (scrubbed and bearded)**
• 6 Spanish pimentos (roasted red peppers) coarsely chopped or in strips

• sprigs of fresh parsley
• about a cup of frozen peas
• 3 lemons cut into wedges

VIDEO HERE!

The paella is traditionally cooked outdoors over a grill, but it can certainly be cooked indoors too.  You may need to use 2 burners on the stove if the larger paella pan is being used. (Check shellfish details at the bottom of this recipe if cooking indoors.)

Simmer 1/2 tsp. of saffron threads in the fish stock for 30 minutes, then set aside to use later.

Place paella pan over heat source (high heat if cooking indoors).  When the pan is hot, add the olive oil.  When oil is hot (but not smoking), add the shrimp, split lobster tails and scallops and sauté for 4-5 minutes or until the scallops are seared and shrimp is almost cooked through.  Remove the seafood and set aside.Add the chicken to the hot pan and season with a liberal amount of course salt and brown on all sides. Once chicken is browned, add the chorizo sausage and simmer for a few minutes, then add about 1/2 cup of rice for each serving, and stir to coat with oil.  Add a pinch of salt and sauté the rice for about 4-5 minutes, or until it starts to turn transparent.  Begin to ladle the saffron and stock (reserved from before) in slowly, about 1 cup or stock for each 1/2 cup of rice used.  Without stirring, let the rice cook until it is about half done (about 5 minutes or until rice is soft and semi-transparent) arrange the clams and mussels — seam side down — in a ring around the edge of the pan.  After a few minutes, lay the shrimp, scallops and the pimentos in the middle of the paella, and the langostinos/lobster as points running out of the center (like a compass).  Garnish the paella with peas and parsley.  When the rice is al dente and the clams and mussels have opened, remove the paella from heat and serve. Serves 6.

* You can also garnish the dish with a whole cooked lobster (steamed separately) rather than split lobster tails cooked in the paella (as pictured)

** Because of the thickness of littleneck clam shells, we recommend that you steam them until just open in advance, because they are unlikely to open in an uncovered pot.  Manila clams have a thinner shell, so they should open according to the recipe.

*** Mussels will open using this method if cooked over an outdoor grill.  However, if you are cooking the paella over the stove (inside), we recommend that you steam the mussels until just open before adding to the paella.

Salpicon Sauce

Sunday, March 21st, 2010 | posted by wendy

This relish is a wonderful accompaniment for any baked or grilled fish (or even chicken). Recipe by Penelope Cassas.

• 1/2 c extra virgin olive oil
• 2 1/2 T sherry vinegar (or red wine vinegar)
• 5 T chopped cornichon pickles
• 2 T small whole capers
• 2 T minced videlia onions
• 2 T pimento or roasted red pepper, chopped
• 1 T chopped parsley
• salt & fresh ground black pepper

Mix all ingredients together and let it set for at least an hour to meld flavors.

Pan Seared Cod (Spanish Style)

Sunday, March 21st, 2010 | posted by wendy

• 2 cod fillets (about 1 pound each)
• flour for dredging
• 1/4 c olive oil
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
• 1/2 c dry white wine
• 1/4 minced fresh Italian parsley
• 3 scallions or chopped shallots (about 1/4 cup)

Preheat oven to the highest temperature short of broiling (500° or more).  Heat a 10” nonstick skillet with an ovenproof handle over medium-heat for a minute or two.  Dredge the flesh side of the cod fillet in flour.  Add the olive oil to the pan and heat it until a pinch of flour sizzles when dropped into the pan.

Cook the cod, floured side down, until it is browned (4–4 minutes). Turn it and season with salt and pepper, then add the garlic, wine, parley and scallions.  Immediately transfer pan to oven and bake until the cod is done about 5–7 minutes (cod begins to “gape” and it will be opaque throughout, offering no resistance to a thin bladed knife).  Avoid overcooking.

Serve immediately with rice or fried potatoes and something green. Wonderful with our Salpicon sauce! Serves 4–6.

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Salt Cod Fritters (Accras de Morue)

Sunday, March 21st, 2010 | posted by wendy

These wonderful fritters are the staple appetizer of Guadeloupe and Martinique. They are addictive and can be seasoned in a variety of ways: thyme and allspice are standard.

• 1 pound salt cod (soaked overnight in several changes of water)
• 1 small jalapeño or habanero pepper, seeded, deveined and minced, or cayenne pepper to taste
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 2 scallions, minced
• 1 T minced fresh parsley
• 1 c unbleached all-purpose flour
•1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 large egg
• 2/3 c milk, more or less
• 2 T chopped tomato
• 2 T chopped cilantro
• vegetable oil for deep frying
• lime wedges

Boil and cool the salt cod (about 15–20 minutes), then chop it finely and mix it with the pepper, thyme, allspice, parsley and scallions.

In a large bowl, mix together the flour and baking powder.  Lightly beat the egg with 1/2 c of the milk and pour them into the flour. Stir until well blended. The batter should be pretty stiff, but if it seems a bit dry, add the remaining milk.  Add to the cod mixture.

Heat 2–3 inches of oil to about 375°F (or test with a little piece of bread—it will sink, rise and begin to bubble). Fry the batter by the tablespoon, a few fritters at a time (too many will cool the oil and make them greasy). Turn them once and fry until they are golden. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately (or keep warm in the oven). Serve with lime wedges.

Cooking time: about 40 minutes using soaked salt cod.  Serves 6–8

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